Western Australia: Kalbarri to Houtman Abrolhos Islands

In Episode 11 of What’s Up Downunder, Ariarne Titmus leads viewers through the next chapter of the Western Australian journey, with Laura heading out on the Indian Ocean before boarding a small plane for an unforgettable trip to East Wallabi Island in the Abrolhos Islands.
Along the way, there are whale encounters, tammar wallabies, spectacular coral gardens and freshly caught Western rock lobster. Back on the mainland, the family turns their catch into a simple seafood meal at camp.
Also in this episode, Luke Hines continues his Camplify Short Stay, travelling from Byron Bay to Kingscliff before heading into the Gold Coast hinterland for ziplining, rainforest walks and waterfalls.

Reefwalker Ocean Discovery: Whale Watching in Kalbarri

Laura heads out with Reefwalker Ocean Discovery, a locally operated tour company offering whale watching, fishing charters, coastal cruises and rock lobster experiences.
During the migration season, humpback whales travel along Western Australia’s coastline, making Kalbarri a fantastic location to see these enormous marine mammals.

For Laura, it’s an especially exciting experience. Humpback whales are her favourite animal, and seeing them in the wild is something she never takes for granted.

Humpback populations were severely depleted by commercial whaling, but protection measures introduced during the twentieth century have helped many populations recover.
Today, thousands of humpbacks migrate along the Western Australian coast each year, although they still face threats including entanglement, vessel strikes and changing ocean conditions.

Along with the whales, the family also encounters bottlenose dolphins, adding another memorable wildlife moment to the journey.
For visitors, a whale-watching tour is a chance to appreciate these animals in their natural environment while learning more about their behaviour and migration.

On the Road With the DENZA B8

The DENZA B8 continues to play an important role in Laura’s Western Australian journey, towing the JB Dirt Road Extreme caravan along the Coral Coast.

This part of the trip provides another opportunity to see the vehicle in a real touring environment, moving between regional towns, coastal roads and popular tourist destinations.

Blue Holes: Kalbarri’s Natural Aquarium

Back on the coast, Laura visits Blue Holes, one of Kalbarri’s most popular swimming and snorkelling locations.
Just a short drive from town, Blue Holes is a sheltered beach where natural limestone reef formations create pools and underwater habitats.
The area is a designated Fish Habitat Protection Area, providing a protected environment for marine life.

More than 70 species of finfish have been recorded in the area, along with coral, crustaceans and Western rock lobster.

For families, it’s an opportunity to see marine life without heading offshore.
The shallow reef pools are particularly appealing for snorkelling when the conditions are calm, although visitors should always take care around waves, reef surfaces and changing tides.

Kalbarri to the Abrolhos Islands

The next adventure takes Laura and the family high above the Indian Ocean.
Boarding a small aircraft with Nationwest Aviation’s Kalbarri Scenic Flights, the family heads offshore towards the Houtman Abrolhos Islands.
Located approximately 60 to 80 kilometres off Western Australia’s Mid West coast, the Abrolhos Islands are a remarkable collection of islands and reefs, divided into three main groups: Wallabi, Easter and Pelsaert.

From the air, the landscape looks completely different.
Turquoise lagoons, exposed reef systems, white sandy beaches and small islands create a striking contrast against the deep blue ocean.
The islands also have a fascinating geological history, shaped by changes in sea level, reef growth and thousands of years of coastal processes.

For travellers, a scenic flight offers a perspective that simply isn’t possible from the mainland.

Wildlife in an Unexpected Place

After landing on East Wallabi Island, Laura discovers a landscape that feels a world away from the mainland.
Part of the Wallabi Group, the island is home to wildlife that has adapted to life in a remote and sometimes challenging environment.

One of the most interesting residents is the tammar wallaby.
These small marsupials have developed remarkable adaptations that allow them to survive on islands with very limited freshwater.
In fact, tammar wallabies found on the Abrolhos Islands can drink seawater, an unusual ability that helps them survive during dry conditions.
It’s an extraordinary example of how wildlife adapts to its environment.

The island is also rich in birdlife, with seabirds using the surrounding islands for nesting and breeding.
Laura explores the island’s natural environment, including its birdlife and an osprey nesting site, gaining a better understanding of the wildlife that calls the Abrolhos home.

Flying Over the Batavia Shipwreck

As the family makes the return journey from East Wallabi Island, the scenic flight takes in one of the most significant shipwreck locations in Australian maritime history.

On 4 June 1629, the Dutch East India Company ship Batavia struck Morning Reef in the Abrolhos Islands while travelling towards the Dutch East Indies.

The wreck itself was devastating, but the events that followed became one of the darkest chapters in Australia’s early European maritime history.
After survivors reached nearby islands, a mutiny led to violence and the deaths of more than 100 people.

The shipwreck and associated survivor sites are now recognised for their national heritage significance.
From the aircraft, Laura is able to appreciate the isolated location and surrounding reef system that played such an important role in the tragedy.

Kalbarri’s Coastal Cliffs from the Air

Continuing towards Kalbarri, the family enjoys another spectacular view of the Coral Coast.
From above, the sandstone cliffs reveal their scale, colour and dramatic position along the Indian Ocean.

These ancient formations create one of Western Australia’s most recognisable coastlines, with layers of rock shaped by erosion over millions of years.

It’s a fitting finish to the flight, bringing the family back to the mainland after a day exploring the islands offshore.

Coral Reefs, Wallabies and Snorkling.

Take 3 for the Sea

While exploring East Wallabi Island, Laura shares a simple message about protecting our oceans.
Take 3 for the Sea encourages everyone to pick up three pieces of rubbish when leaving a beach, waterway or natural area.
It’s a small action that can make a real difference, particularly in fragile marine environments.
Plastic pollution is a serious threat to marine animals, including turtles and seabirds, which can mistake plastic for food or become entangled in discarded materials.
For travellers, it’s a reminder to leave every destination better than they found it.

Snorkelling the Abrolhos Islands: Coral Gardens and Tropical Fish

One of the biggest surprises of the Abrolhos Islands is the reef.
Despite their location well south of the tropics, the islands support an extraordinary variety of coral and marine life.
Historical scientific surveys have recorded 184 species of coral from 42 genera across the Abrolhos, making the region one of Western Australia’s most significant southern coral reef environments.

The warm Leeuwin Current helps support this remarkable ecosystem, allowing tropical marine species to thrive much further south than many travellers might expect.
Beneath the surface, coral formations provide habitat for colourful reef fish, larger fish species, crustaceans and other marine animals.
Laura takes the opportunity to explore the underwater world, encountering tropical fish and impressive reef formations.
It’s a memorable part of the trip and a strong reminder of just how diverse Western Australia’s marine environments can be.

Western Rock Lobster: A Taste of the Abrolhos

The Abrolhos Islands are also famous for Western rock lobster, supporting one of Australia’s most important commercial fishing industries.
During the visit, Laura gets a closer look at these remarkable crustaceans, including a hands-on rock lobster experience.
Found among reef structures and rocky habitats, Western rock lobsters are a valuable part of the region’s seafood story.

For visitors interested in fishing or collecting lobster, it’s important to understand the regulations, including licensing, size limits, seasonal restrictions and protected areas.
The experience provides another connection between the marine environment, local industry and the seafood Western Australia is known for.

Tasman Holiday Parks Kalbarri

Back on the ground, Laura and the family return to Tasman Holiday Parks Kalbarri.
Located in the heart of town, the park provides a convenient base for exploring the region, with caravan and camping sites, cabins and facilities including a communal camp kitchen.

This time, the focus is on turning fresh Western Australian rock lobster into a simple meal.
With Stefan helping prepare the seafood, the family gets ready for an easy camp lunch.

Ariarne Titmus: Relentless

Relentless is available in all good bookstores nationwide or head to Booktopia to buy online

Camplify Short Stay · Luke Hines

Northern NSW

📍 Byron to Kingscliff

Also in this episode, Luke Hines continues his What’s Up Downunder Short Stay with Camplify, leaving Byron Bay and heading north towards Kingscliff.
Located on the Tweed Coast in northern New South Wales, Kingscliff is a relaxed coastal destination with beaches, waterways, cafes and easy access to the Gold Coast hinterland.
For a short stay, it offers a useful balance between coastal relaxation and adventure.
With a Camplify caravan as his base, Luke can settle in by the coast before heading out to explore some of the region’s most exciting attractions.

Plan Your Own Kalbarri and Abrolhos Islands Adventure

Kalbarri is well known for its gorges and coastal cliffs, but Episode 11 shows why the region is worth exploring beyond the mainland.

From whale watching and snorkelling to scenic flights, wildlife and maritime history, there is plenty to fill several days.

Suggested itinerary

Kalbarri to East Wallabi Island – Houtman Abrolhos Islands

1. 1Kalbarri Whale Watching – Head out with Reefwalker Ocean Discovery for a whale-watching tour during migration season. Keep the afternoon free to explore Kalbarri’s waterfront and coastline.
2. 2Blue Holes – Spend the morning exploring Blue Holes, taking time to snorkel and discover the marine life living among the protected limestone reefs.
3. 3Abrolhos Islands Scenic Flight – Book an Abrolhos Islands experience with Kalbarri Scenic Flights. Explore East Wallabi Island, look for wallabies and seabirds, and snorkel the surrounding reef.
4. 4Batavia History and Coastal Views – Choose a scenic flight that includes the Batavia wreck area and take in Kalbarri’s spectacular sandstone cliffs from the air.
5. 5Relax in Kalbarri – Enjoy a slower day at camp, explore the town and prepare a fresh local seafood meal.

Traveller Notes

“I think what I loved most was being able to share those experiences with the family. There’s so much to learn when you’re travelling, and this part of Western Australia really shows how important it is to appreciate and look after the natural places we’re lucky enough to visit.”

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