In Episode 10 of What’s Up Downunder, Ariarne Titmus guides us through another leg of the Western Australian adventure, with Laura, Stefan, Leo and Rudi exploring the history, landscapes and local experiences that make this stretch of coastline so memorable.
Travelling with the DENZA B8 and JB Dirt Road Extreme caravan, the family stops in Dongara, explores the historic Lynton Station and discovers the extraordinary colours of Hutt Lagoon before arriving in Kalbarri, where the Murchison River meets the Indian Ocean.
Also in this episode, Luke Hines heads to Byron Bay for a Camplify Short Stay, discovering local food, a working farm, craft brewing and one of Australia’s most recognisable coastal landmarks.
The Journey North to Kalbarri
Leaving Ledge Point behind, Laura and the family continue their journey along Western Australia’s Coral Coast, heading towards Kalbarri.
This section of the trip introduces a different side of the state. The coastline stretches north, small historic towns offer reasons to stop, and the landscape begins to change as the road approaches the Murchison region.
Kalbarri is particularly special. It sits at the mouth of the Murchison River, where an ancient river system meets the Indian Ocean. It’s a destination known for its dramatic gorges, coastal cliffs, national park and laid-back holiday atmosphere.
But as Laura discovers, there’s plenty worth exploring before reaching town.
Dongara: Morning Tea at Poppies at the Park
The first stop is Dongara, a historic coastal town known for its fishing heritage, old buildings and relaxed country atmosphere.
Laura and the family call into Poppies at the Park for morning tea, taking some time to enjoy a coffee and a break from the road.
Set in a character-filled historic building beside the park, it’s the kind of little local stop that makes travelling through regional Australia so rewarding.
Dongara has a rich history connected to the development of Western Australia’s Mid West. Its heritage buildings tell stories of early settlement, agriculture, fishing and the people who helped shape the region.
For history lovers, there are three local museums worth exploring: the Old Police Station and Courthouse, Russ Historic Cottage and the Packout Room at Port Denison.
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Poppies at the Park
Lynton Station: A Different Side of Australian History
Continuing north, Laura visits Lynton Station near Port Gregory, where Western Australia’s convict history is still visible in the landscape.
Established in 1853, the Lynton Convict Hiring Depot was created to provide labour for the nearby Geraldine Mine and surrounding pastoral properties.
Around 60 men arrived with pensioner guards, and the site developed into a working depot where convicts and skilled tradespeople helped construct buildings, including stone structures that still form part of the historic precinct.
The ruins, buildings and stories provide a fascinating look at a chapter of Australian history that can easily be overlooked when travelling through this part of the country.
For visitors, Lynton Station is much more than a roadside history stop. The surrounding property is also home to Linga Longa at Lynton Station, offering travellers the chance to stay a little longer.
Linga Longa at Lynton Station
There’s something special about being able to spend a night somewhere with this much history.
Linga Longa at Lynton Station offers powered and unpowered caravan and camping sites, along with cottage accommodation and other simple farm-stay options.
It’s an opportunity to slow down, explore the historic grounds and enjoy the quieter side of the Coral Coast.
For caravanners who enjoy heritage sites, rural stays and destinations away from busy holiday parks, it’s a stop worth considering.
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Linga Longa at Lynton Station
Hutt Lagoon: Western Australia’s Pink Lake
One of the most visually striking stops on the journey comes at Hutt Lagoon, better known as Pink Lake.
Located near Port Gregory, the lake is famous for its remarkable pink colouring, which can range from pale pink to deep red and purple depending on the conditions.
The colour is produced by the naturally occurring algae Dunaliella salina, which creates pigments responsible for the water’s distinctive appearance.
It’s one of those places that almost looks unreal, particularly when the sun is out and the bright lake contrasts with the surrounding dry landscape.
For Laura and the family, it’s a memorable stop on the way into Kalbarri and another example of how varied Western Australia’s coastal scenery can be.
Traveller tip
A sunny day, particularly around the middle of the day, often produces the strongest pink colours. Use designated stopping areas and avoid swimming in the highly saline water.
Find out more about Hutt Lagoon
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On the Road With the DENZA B8
The DENZA B8 continues to play an important role in Laura’s Western Australian journey, towing the JB Dirt Road Extreme caravan along the Coral Coast.
This part of the trip provides another opportunity to see the vehicle in a real touring environment, moving between regional towns, coastal roads and popular tourist destinations.
Camplify Short Stay · Northern NSW
Byron Bay
📍 Cape Byron
Meanwhile, on the other side of Australia, Luke Hines heads to Byron Bay for another What’s Up Downunder Short Stay with Camplify.
Known for its beaches, food culture, hinterland and relaxed coastal atmosphere, Byron Bay is a popular destination for a quick escape.
For Luke, this part of the adventure is about exploring the businesses and local producers that give the region its distinctive character, from farm-grown food to locally made craft beer.
With Camplify making the caravan side of the trip simple, Luke is free to get out and discover more of the Northern Rivers.
What’s Up Downunder Kitchens
Recipe from Episode 10
Chilli Scrambled Eggs with Zesty Avo Smash on Sourdough
Ingredients
- 6 Free-Range Eggs
- 1/4 cup Jersey Milk
- 1 Avocado
- 1 Lime, Juiced
- 1 tsp Smashed Avocado Dukkah Blend
- 4 Slices Sourdough
- Extra Virgin Olive Oil, For drizzling and cooking
- 2 Handfuls Fresh Rocket
- 2 tsp Chilli Oil (Optional)
- Sea Salt & Pepper
Method
- 1Toast the sourdough: Toast until golden, then drizzle with olive oil.
- 2Make the avo smash: Mash the avocado with the lime juice and dukkah blend. Season with salt and pepper.
- 3Whisk the eggs: Whisk together with the Jersey milk and a pinch of salt.
- 4Cook the eggs: Heat a drizzle of olive oil in a pan over low heat. Add the eggs and gently fold until just set and creamy.
- 5Build the toast: Spread the avo smash over the sourdough and top with fresh rocket.
- 6Finish and serve: Pile the eggs on top and finish with a spoonful of chilli oil.
Where they Stayed: Tasman Holiday Parks Kalbarri
Back on the Coral Coast, Laura and the family arrive in Kalbarri and settle in at Tasman Holiday Parks Kalbarri.
Located in the centre of town, close to where the Murchison River reaches the Indian Ocean, the park offers a convenient base for exploring both Kalbarri’s coastline and the national park.
With the foreshore just across the road and local shops, cafes and attractions nearby, it’s an ideal location for travellers who want to park up and explore.
The park offers caravan and camping sites, cabins and practical facilities including a camp kitchen, BBQ areas, laundry and amenities.
For Laura and the family, it’s the perfect place to settle in before exploring Kalbarri’s dramatic inland landscapes.
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Tasman Holiday Parks Kalbarri
Kalbarri Skywalk – Kaju Yatka
One of the biggest highlights of this episode is Kalbarri Skywalk, also known as Kaju Yatka, meaning walk to sky.
Located within Kalbarri National Park, the Skywalk features two cantilevered viewing platforms extending over the edge of the Murchison River Gorge.
Standing approximately 100 metres above the gorge, visitors can look out across a landscape shaped by millions of years of geological change.
It’s a spectacular view, with ancient red rock formations, winding river channels and a vast landscape stretching into the distance.
The attraction also celebrates the region’s Aboriginal heritage, with interpretive artworks and information recognising the culture and connection to Country of the local Nanda people.
For travellers, it’s one of those experiences that shows just how different the interior of Kalbarri can feel from the coastal town below.
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Kalbarri Skywalk – Kaju Yatka
Nature’s Window
The journey through Kalbarri National Park continues at Nature’s Window, one of Western Australia’s most photographed natural landmarks.
The striking rock formation creates a natural frame overlooking the Murchison River as it winds through the rugged gorge below.
Formed through erosion over an immense period of time, Nature’s Window has become one of the defining images of the region.
The walk to the formation is relatively short, but visitors should allow time for uneven surfaces, rocky steps and changing weather conditions.
It’s a rewarding stop and a great example of why Kalbarri National Park deserves more than a quick drive-through visit.
Nature's Window
Visit earlier in the day during warmer weather, take plenty of water and wear suitable walking shoes. The inland gorges can become extremely hot.
Relentless is available in all good bookstores nationwide or head to Booktopia to buy online
Ariarne Titmus: Relentless
Away from the road, Ariarne Titmus also shares news of her memoir, Relentless: Family, Self-belief and the Will to Win.
The book follows her journey from a young swimmer with big ambitions to becoming one of Australia’s most successful Olympic athletes, exploring the determination, challenges and people behind her success.
It’s a chance for viewers to discover another side of the What’s Up Downunder host beyond the pool and the open road.
Relentless is scheduled for release in November 2026.
Finlay’s Kalbarri: Local Seafood and Craft Beer
After exploring Kalbarri’s national park, Laura heads to Finlay’s Kalbarri for a relaxed local dining experience.
Known for its fresh seafood, onsite craft brewery and laid-back outdoor setting, Finlay’s has become a favourite with locals and travellers.
The menu places a strong emphasis on locally caught seafood, while the brewery produces its own range of craft beers.
It’s also a welcoming place for families and travellers with dogs, with a relaxed atmosphere and live music on Sunday afternoons.
After a day exploring Kalbarri’s gorges and lookouts, it’s an ideal spot to finish the day with good food and a taste of the region.
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Finlay's Kalbarri
Suggested itinerary
Your Route Title
- 1Ledge Point to Dongara – Travel north towards Dongara, stopping for morning tea at Poppies at the Park. Take time to explore the town’s heritage buildings and local museums.
- 2Dongara to Port Gregory – Continue north and visit Lynton Station to discover the history of the convict hiring depot. Consider an overnight farm stay at Linga Longa.
- 3Pink Lake to Kalbarri – Visit the Pink Lake near Port Gregory, then continue towards Kalbarri and settle in at Tasman Holiday Parks Kalbarri.
- 4Kalbarri National Park – Explore Kalbarri Skywalk and Nature’s Window, taking time to appreciate the Murchison River Gorge and the region’s extraordinary geology.
- 5Kalbarri and the Coast – Spend a slower day exploring Kalbarri’s waterfront, local shops and coastal scenery before finishing with a meal at Finlay’s Kalbarri.
Traveller Notes
This stretch of Western Australia’s Coral Coast is much more than a drive between two destinations. With historic towns, heritage sites, pink lakes, coastal scenery and one of the state’s most impressive national parks, it’s worth setting aside time to explore properly.
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