Overview – Eyre Peninsula Travel Guide
Words and Photos: Bruce and Marg Gow – Baby Boomers on the Road
You could nearly hear the sighs of relief from the caravan as it finally got back on the road. After a couple of long, quiet years, we decided it was time for a holiday. Where better than a trip to wonderful South Australia? Meandering and fishing are two pursuits we had in mind. We also wanted a complete change of scenery from inland Victoria. We chose the beaches of the Eyre Peninsula and arranged to meet some friends we hadn’t seen in a long time. A wandering week to get there, two weeks at a couple of beaches, and another wandering week to get home. That should get rid of the cobwebs.
Water Views
After we crossed Victoria, we spent our first seaside night at Whyalla. Our caravan park site was right next to the water. This was one of the bigger places we would be staying, so we shopped for all our supplies and started down the eastern side of the Eyre Peninsula. South Australia is renowned as a dry state in a dry continent, obvious with its limestone and rocky outcrops, saltbush, and harsh-looking landscape. But this year there had been a huge rain event. We had the good fortune to pass through the greenest land we have ever seen there, and it looked so lush and productive. As we drove down the coast, we stopped at many of the little bays. The jagged coastline provided sheltered pockets from the stretches of roaring surf. Arno Bay, Port Neill, and on to Tumby Bay – all with good caravan parks. There were eateries offering seafood delights like oysters, crabs, and prawns. These smaller communities are self-sufficient and friendly, always popular with local and interstate travellers. It was good to see how busy they were.
A Fisho’s Feast
As we have been to Port Lincoln several times, we decided to stick to the smaller places and crossed the peninsula through Cummins to arrive at Elliston, on the western side. This coast changes dramatically. There are still those protected little bays, but here we find the magnificent rocky cliffs of the Great Australian Bight. They form the coastline around to Western Australia. There is a wonderful cliff drive at Elliston featuring amazing sculptures. The roads were not busy, one of the best things about travelling in SA. Once we got to our fishing destination of Venus Bay, we were very glad we had booked ahead. Appropriately, they were packed in like sardines. Many fishers arrive here every year, same spot, and stay for months. They enjoy the whiting, crabs, and squid. We did the same, fresh whiting every night – what a feast. Venus Bay is a small community with a store and many holiday homes. For a night out, Port Kenny pub is about fifteen minutes away and offers a great meal. It was the right spot to celebrate our friend’s birthday.
A Mid-Point Highlight
On to Streaky Bay, another popular spot, in a bigger town. We stocked up at the supermarkets and enjoyed some cafes and the excellent bakery. More fishing, although the wind was up, as it often is along there. It was time to start for home, up through Wudinna where we climbed Pildappa Rock. It’s a marvellous natural feature a bit like Wave Rock in WA. We spent the night at the low-cost camp at Kimba, the town that boasts it is halfway across Australia. The camp there is big with excellent facilities, and we chatted to other travellers. Some of them were pleased to be heading to WA to see family again. We wound our way home via Port Broughton and Kingston SE before entering Victoria again. Not in any hurry to leave the sea and the distinct ambience of South Australia, one of our favourite parts of the world. We will be back, but for now, the caravan seems a little more relaxed to be home.
Trek Notes – Bendigo to Eyre Peninsula
Route: Whyalla, Cowell, Arno Bay, Port Neill, Tumby Bay, Cummins, Elliston, Venus Bay, Streaky Bay, Wudinna, Pildappa Rock, Kimba & Port Augusta. Days on the Road: 14 travelling + 14 at Venus and Streaky Bay. Distance: approx 3000 km.
Our Eyre Peninsula Camps: Discovery Parks Whyalla Foreshore, Port Neill Caravan Park, Tumby Bay Caravan Park, Elliston Waterloo Bay Tourist Park, Venus Bay Beachfront Tourist Park, Streaky Bay Foreshore Tourist Park, Kimba Recreation Reserve.
